Ghor Khuttree: marking 2000 years of history

Gor Khuttree -- marking 2000 years of history

Qk archives published by the NEWS on Sunday in 2011

By Dr Ali Jan

Gor Khuttree literally means the 'Warriors Grave', although there are no traces of any grave here. It is perhaps the oldest citadel in the ancient city of Peshawar. A recent UNESCO sponsored archaeological excavation at the site has established the city's historic profile which dates back to pre-Christian period of more than two millennia making Peshawar one of the world's oldest living cities.

It remained an important place for travellers for thousands of years. Buddha's alms or begging bowl was displayed here at one time. After the decline of Buddhism in the region following the invasion by Huns and Sassanians, it became a bastion for Hindu worship. Mughal Emperor Babar in the beginning of his memoir, Babarnama, recorded: "On Friday, the 1st Sefer in the year 932, when the sun was in Sagitarius (1525 AD, November 17th), I set out on my march to invade Hindustan." On reaching Peshawar, Babar with his usual curiosity visited Gor Khuttree and wrote, "There are nowhere in the whole world such narrow and dark hermit's cells as at this place. After entering the doorway and descending one or two stairs, you must lie down, and proceed crawling along, stretched at full length. You cannot enter without a light. The quantities of hair (cut off by pilgrims as offerings), both of head and beard, that are lying scattered about, and in the vicinity of the place are immense."

The present buildings built at the site mostly date back to Mughal, Sikh and the British period. Lying at the crossroads of the old trade-route, Gor Khuttree became a major caravanserai in Mughal times and mainly served as a stopping place for travellers coming from other parts of the world. It was converted into a fortified compound and two grand entrances were built on its eastern and western ends. The gates were kept locked at night to provide safety and shelter to the camel caravans laden with merchandise. A mosque was also built here by Jahan Ara Begum, daughter of Emperor Shahjahan.

During the early Sikh rule, around 1823, the mosque was destroyed and replaced by a temple to Gorakhnath in the south of the courtyard. Later Gor Khuttree became the residence of their Italian mercenary general, Paolo de Avitabile who also built a pavilion over its western gate. A rare pen and ink sketch of him dated February 1844 (originally done by 'C.G' in Calcutta) has recently been discovered in the dusty store-godown of Peshawar museum.

Avitabile was from Agerola, on the famous Salentine peninsula between Naples and Amalfi in Italy. The town square of San Lazzaro in Naples is named after him. He was a mercenary in the true sense who had also served in Napoleon's army. He ruled Peshawar from 1838-1842 with an iron hand. The local inhabitants of Peshawar used to call him 'Abu Tabilah'. When the 31st (Huntingdonshire) Regiment passed through Peshawar on August 21, 1842 they were hosted by him. The service digest of the British regiment records: "The officers were entertained hospitably by the governor of the city, the Italian General Avitabile who had been recruited by Ranjit Singh to train his army and had stayed on to serve his son. They were impressed by the evidence of his methods of maintaining law and order. At each corner of the city there was a large gallows on which malefactors were hanging." (Service Record, the 31st Regt, 1842)

In 1842 Avitabile returned home to Italy laden with wealth and honours, and proceeded to procure for himself a large castle-like mansion, a magnificent funeral chapel in the local cathedral. People also credit him with having created a new breed of cattle by importing some Jersey cows from Britain, on his way home from Peshawar in 1842, and crossing them with the local variety; the result is supposed to produce a fine local cheese. He soon came to occupy the same funeral chapel that he had bought when he married his 12-year-old Italian niece who it is said poisoned him to death in 1850.

Yet long after his departure from Peshawar and this life some of his past subjects from this region were still searching for him. Sir Richard Francis Burton, the legendary explorer, linguist and translator of Arabian Nights etc (who also became the first Englishman to perform the ritual of Haj in the guise of a Pathan in 1853) records meeting a group of plain folks from the Punjab Frontier in Arabia "...who had walked from Meccah to Cairo in search of 'Abu Tabilah,' (Avitabile), whom report had led to the banks of the Nile." Burton noted: "Some were young, others had white beards -- all were weary and wayworn; but the saddest sight was an old woman, so decrepit that she could scarcely walk. The poor fellows were travelling on foot, carrying their wallets, with a few pence in their pockets, utterly ignorant of route and road, and actually determined in this plight to make Lahore by Baghdad, Bushir, and Karachi. Such -- so incredible -- is Indian improvidence!" (Personal Narrative of a Pilgrimage to Al-Madinah and Meccah -- 1855)

During the Anglo-Sikh wars (1849) George Lawrence, the British representative and his family took refuge here for sometime. In the following years its eastern end became the City Mission House. The Illustrated London News (ILN) in an 1860 issue printed an image entitled 'Illumination And Fireworks At Peshawar' depicting a grand Viceregal procession of elephants passing through the old city towards the western (tahsil) gate of Gor Khuttree. The illustration was done on the occasion of the grand durbar of February 29 1860 when the Governor General and Viceroy of India held a reception of the principal chiefs of the various Pathan hill tribes who had assembled to pay homage to the representative of Queen Victoria. According to the ILN: "...the occasion was celebrated by illuminations and a display of fireworks of both of which natives are exceedingly fond; and they produce the finest fireworks by the simplest means. A little earthen dish, like a flat cup, is used, filled with oil, and with a piece of cotton-wick is put in it. These lamps are provided in great numbers, and are placed in rows along the tops of houses, and upon the cornices of the shops, over and under windows, around arches, and, in fact, wherever one of these tiny lamps can be placed. The effect is picturesque in the extreme. Everywhere the natives are sitting, perfectly still and quiet, in long rows, behind the lights, waiting silently to see the Lord Sahib pass by." (Illustrated London News, 1860)

In March 1869 Amir Shere Ali, the King of Afghanistan resided in the house which stood on the south-eastern corner of Gor Khuttree at the invitation of the missionary clergy. In the latter half of the nineteenth century it became the residence of the lady missionaries connected with the Church of England Zenana (female) Missionary Society.

Dr. Arthur Lankester opened the medical mission work in Peshawar at this site. It began on January 12, 1898, when a man from Ghazni in Afghanistan, some two hundred miles beyond the frontier, walked into the courtyard and asked for treatment. The hospital carried on until 1904 when it was shifted to much larger premises outside the walled city at the Mission Hospital, Dabgari Gardens.

An English archaeologist Gertrude Bell, mostly renowned for her findings in Iraq, visited Gor Khuttree in 1903 and wrote in her diary: "22 Jan -- We went to the Tahsil where there is a suite of empty rooms where the Amir's envoys are lodged, with a zenana for their women. The Tahsildar is an agreeable Persian speaking man. From the roof we had a wonderful view over the rabbit warren of mud coloured Peshawar and away across a plain set with trees to the hills of the Forbidden Land." (Diary of Gertrude Bell, 1903)

In 1912 a Fire Brigade Station was built on the premises. Two red antique fire engines are parked under the former municipal shed at Gor Khuttree. They are well-preserved and the name of the Merry Weather London Company that manufactured them in the early 1900s is still visible. During the British-era, Gor Khuttree also functioned as a Tahsil or District Police Superintendent's headquarter.

Recently an archaeological museum has been built on the south-eastern side where the original grand residence known as 'Serai-du-dar' ('The Jun of the Two Gates') had perhaps once stood. Objects recovered from excavations at Gor Khuttree are displayed here. It has an interesting ethnological gallery upstairs as well. The curator, Ihsanullah Khan, is a knowledgeable young man who gave me a splendid guided tour of the place.

Peshawar has a rich history which is gradually disappearing brick by brick. In the north of the compound is an appalling new construction -- a 'Marriage Hall' -- built in 1980s despite much public opposition, which is unfortunately a big blot on the otherwise charming ancient heritage site of Gor Khuttree.

QK Archives: Rahmat Shah Sail

Rahmat Shah Sail
Written by Shamsur Rahman Shams
Saturday, 20 May 2006
Sweet are the uses of adversity, says William Shakespeare. It is a poisonous toad which contains in its head a precious jewel. It gives us more scope for the exercise of our faculties and there is no better school for man. What is learnt in the school of adversity cannot be learnt anywhere else, either from books or from schools and colleges.

The noble and sublime of the world are those who have risen from the ranks. The world has benefited more form these struggling souls than by men nursed in prosperity.

Mr. Rahmat Shah Sail has suffered his full share of adversities. Born among a family of laborers in 1943, he went through many trials and tribulations during his childhood. His father, Amin Gul, and grandfather, Syed Gul, are stated to be the poorest people of Warter (Dargai) in Malakand Agency.

Sail was admitted to a local primary school for formal education at the age of five, but it became difficult for his parents to bear the expenses and thus he was deprived of getting any education. According to his colleagues he was the most intelligent student but after passing class three, he was compelled to leave school and assist his parents in earning a livelihood. He worked from morn to dusk and brought a few coins home to buy corn. His spirit, meanwhile, was no dormant. He had a heart filled with emotions and thoughts, and after a hard days labor he used to compose poetry to lessen his fatigue.


This capacity later developed and he emerged as a poet and was given a prominent place among the other poets of the territory. Nobody guided him except in showing him how to labor harder and harder. It is astonishing to note here that the early life of Rahmat Shah Sail was arduous and full of difficulties, but his early poetry was concerned with nothing but his roaming about confounded by the teasing love of his beloved. His early poetry is an echo of his grieved heart, not due to hard work but to the faithlessness of his beloved.

On the one hand he used to help his parents while on the other he burnt midnight oil developing his emotional thoughts and expressing his feelings through his pen. As soon as his senses matured, his ideas and feelings ripened and his poetry took on new shape and color.

Emboldened also by a local poet, Rahmat Shah Sail won a position and became famous for his poetic and literary talent. Now, instead of composing only love poetry, he gave vent to many other subjects and made his poetry universal. He started studying the work of ancient and modern poets. He went through the works of Khushal Khan Khattak, Rahman Baba, Abdul Hamid, Ali Khan and other Pashto poets, as well as those of Sahir Lodhianvi, Faiz Ahmad Faiz and Josh Maleeh Abadi and Urdu. He was considerably influenced by their technique and sublime style.

Though uneducated, Sail is the author of three books, Da Weer Pa Chum Ka War Da Naghmu and Da Lumbu pa Soori. The former contains sonnets and the latter ghazals, plots, stanzas and tappas. His third book, Da Khaistoonu Da Sparly Badoona has come to the market recently. It is compiled from his latest ghazals written in modern Pakhtun society.

Saadullah Jan Burq, a renowned poet and a distinguished writer, writes about Sail that if a flower has color but no fragrance or fragrance but no color, it can not be called a rose. Only when it has both these features does a rose attain perfection and as every flower is not a rose, so every poet can not be compared with Rahmat Shah Sail. What makes Sail most highly regarded is his melodious poetry. There is a harmony between his poetry and voice. His poetry is more impressive when recited by himself.

His ghazal interprets various aspects of life. If he talks about the rosy cheeks of his beloved, he also feels light and darkness, happiness and sorrow. If he discusses flowers, he also refers to the thorns surrounding them. The salient characteristics of his ghazals are their separateness, mannerisms and similes. These make his ghazal completely different from that of other poets.

Sail writes poetry and prose and has full command on both. He is full of vigor, courage and capable to continue and spread his work:

He writes:



My wisdom is not to be perished or destroyed. Only hard times will paralyze it.

On analysis, two things emerge: his poetry is dominated first by delicacy and second naturalness. Every verse he says in such a natural and delicate manner as to touch the heart. He says:



O my beloved! Why does my presence so confuse you? I am like spring and will make blossom your youth.

He is a highly anxious lover ready to suffer every sort of agony to get the hand of his beloved:



Saqi! Give me wine of the rosy eyes today. No matter if I am anguished for it tomorrow.

Any poet or writer who, after observing certain facts, tries to hide them or produce in a different way does not fulfill his responsibility as a poet or writer and is said to be coarse and dishonest. Sail stands innocent of any such act.

He is a sensitive heart. Virtuousness and good feelings are overflowing in his personality. Being a true Pakhtun, he is greatly distressed to see the disloyalty of his Pakhtun brethren and says:



Owing to the disloyal nature of my Pakhtun brothers, I am compelled to make relationship with strangers.

Rahmat Shah Sail pays rich tributes to Baba-e-Pushto Khushal Khan Khattak and is greatly impressed by his poetry.

His own life is an imitation of Khushal Khan who endured forays, house arrests and imprisonment. Sail was also imprisoned and put to severe trails for nothing, besides voicing his opinions. Even in jail, he did not give up his line of action. It was the result of these tortures and torments that Sail's poetry contains many dreadful events and examples of human cruelty that took place in the past. In his sonnet Hiroshima, he depicts the destruction of nuclear disaster and criticizes the words-with-out-action approach of the global powers towards preventing the nuclear race. He reminds the two superpowers and other states of the world of the widespread devastation caused by the bomb in Hiroshima and urge them to work for the peaceful use of nuclear energy. He says that it is of no avail merely to show anger and resentment over the tragedy but the need is to take some practical measures to prevent such calamities. In another such poem "Vietnam War", Sail calls for the co-operation and unity of Muslims through out the world to foil the barbarism and evil designs of those treacherous nations who try to mar global peace.

At present, Rahmat Shah Sail runs a tailoring shop in Dargari Bazar to earn his livelihood but most of his time is spent in literary activities. He is a member of Pashto Adabi Jirga, Malakand Agency.

Khatir Afridi, Ikramullah Gran and Shamsul Qamar Andesh are his favorite poets among these colleagues. He holds Amir Hamza Shinwari in most high regard for his meritorious services to the cause of Pashto literature.

It is quite unjust an ugly spot on the Pashto language, that a man of such literary talent sews cloths to make his both ends meet. He has been denied his due place in society due to his great sin of not having passed examinations in any school or college, even though he has more ability than a well-educated person. If supported, he will be able to do more for the betterment of his mother tongue; otherwise it is feared that the may give up his struggle due to constant disappointment.

QK Archives: Ajmal Khattak breaks with ANP

Khattak gains strength as ANP dissidents join his party
Amir Mir says Ajmal Khattak's ouster may prove costly to the ANP
Published May 2000 by the Friday times

The May 21 decision by the Awami National Party (ANP) high-command to
expel veteran ANP politician and the party's former president, Ajmal
Khattak, from the party is likely to prove extremely costly for Wali
Bagh. The 75-year old Khattak has launched his own party - National
Awami Party Pakistan (NAPP), which sounds the same as NAP, the old name
of ANP - and has already attracted a number of suspended and
disgruntled ANP parliamentarians.

ANP insiders told TFT Khattak's expulsion, orchestrated through the
party president Asfandyar Wali Khan by Asfandyar's stepmother, Begum
Nasim Wali Khan, has backfired for all practical purposes.

"The party is likely to face some more set-backs following the
defection of two Peshawar-based parliamentarians - Arbab Sa'adullah
Jan, a suspended MNA, and Arbab Mohammad Ayub Jan, a suspended MPA, to
the new party," says a source.

Interestingly, before announcing their decision to quit the ANP, the
two leaders had held a meeting with Mr Khattak at their residence. NAPP
sources said both of them had assured Khattak of their full support to
the new party, besides expressing hope that a majority of other ANP
leaders would follow suit shortly.

Ayub Jan was first elected as an MPA in the 1985 party-less elections.
He retained his seat in the 1988 elections. He also held portfolios in
the cabinets of Arbab Jehangir Khan, Aftab Sherpao and Mir Afzal Khan.
Arbab Sa'adullah is his nephew.

Similarly, two other ANP leaders, Jan Mohammad Khattak and Mian
Muzaffar Shah, also suspended MPAs from Nowshera district, have came
out in support of Ajmal Khattak. The ANP's provincial vice-president
and a suspended MPA from Mansehra district, Zarin Gul Khan, has also
tendered his resignation from the party and has joined Ajmal Khattak's
camp. Another suspended MPA from Swabi, Salim Khan Advocate, who had
resigned as the party's provincial general-secretary, has expressed his
inclination to join the NAPP. Interestingly, the ANP leadership had
warned Salim Khan against meeting with Khattak. "I will remain a humble
servant of the party leadership until they give me the marching
orders," Salim Khan was reported as saying sarcastically.

Although the ANP's central president, Asfandyar Wali, insists that
Khattak was expelled for violating party discipline, the supporters of
the veteran Pushtoon leader allege that he became the target of Begum
Nasim Wali Khan's wrath following his refusal to talk to Chief
Executive General Pervaiz Musharaf for the release of her "corrupt"
brother, Azam Hoti, who is being tried by the National Accountability
Bureau (NAB). Ajmal Khattak was, and remains, the first politician with
whom General Musharaf met on November 26. The meeting was described as
a well-considered and cautious attempt by the military to open its
channels of communication with the political leadership.

While Ajmal Khattak maintained that his meeting with Musharraf was
approved by the ANP leadership, the Khans of Wali Bagh vehemently
denied his claim, saying they were not informed about the meeting.
Sharp differences later surfaced between Khattak and the family members
of Wali Khan and on May 18 the party finally served a show-cause notice
on Khattak "for not toeing the policies drawn by the party's Central
Executive Committee". The senior Pushtoon leader was given three days
to explain his position "as to why action should not be taken against
him for issuing statements contrary to party's policies".

Making public the party's decision at a press conference, Asfandyar
Wali said: "He should simply resign since the party high-command cannot
accept the practice of issuing controversial press statements".

The ANP leadership, annoyed with the former president for the last
several months, actually acted against him when he (Ajmal Khattak)
proposed the setting up of a broad-based national council to decide
important national issues. Khattak had also opposed the restoration of
assemblies or holding of general elections in the country in the near
future while speaking to newsmen at the Peshawar Press Club. The
internal ANP rift actually compounded after party's provincial general-
secretary Salim Khan advocate handed over his resignation to the ANP
high command. Party circles linked Salim Khan's resignation to the
existence of a rebel group opposing the increasing domination of the
party by the Wali Khan family.

Most observers of NWFP politics agree that the political culture of the
ANP has steadily deteriorated. "Much of it has to do with the party's
almost decade-long alliance with the Pakistan Muslim League. The ANP
was always a democratic party and took principled stand on issues. In
the last ten years or so it developed a dictatorial culture, and the
power became concentrated in the hands of a few leaders," says an
analyst who has observed the ANP for a long time.

Some other insiders TFT spoke with blamed this transformation on Begum
Wali Khan and her brother Azam Hoti. "Hoti was closest to the PML
leadership and remained federal minister twice," says a source. Since
the military takeover, Hoti has been charged with corruption. Khattak
was reported to be unsympathetic to Hoti's "plight", which earned him
the ire of Begum Wali Khan.

However, interestingly, while Asfandyar was addressing the press
conference, Khattak was busy meeting with Maulana Fazalur Rehman, chief
of Jamiat-i-Ulema Islam, and Mr Asghar Khan, chief of Tehrik-i-
Istiqlal, floating the idea of a national government. He later held a
meeting with the Tehrik-e-Insaaf chief, Imran Khan, giving rise to
rumours that he has been given a go ahead for the top slot.

However, within a week of his expulsion, Khattak announced that NAP,
disbanded by the Supreme Court in 1973, was being revived in order to
work for the change but without resorting to extremism or violence and
by imbibing the spirit of service to the downtrodden people of the
country. On that occasion, Khattak admitted that he remained a
supporter of Pakhtoonistan in the past but it was never without
Pakistan and now he had decided to amend the party manifesto in the
light of new ground realities.

Khattak claimed that he had launched the party under pressure from the
country's leading like-minded, democratic elements and particularly
those old guards of the Khudai Khidmatgar movement whose families had
rendered supreme sacrifices for the creation of Pakistan.

He said that while the general manifesto of the party would remain that
of the defunct NAP, it would contain certain amendments keeping in view
the basic political, cultural and economic conditions and human rights.
Explaining the basic vision of the new party, Khattak said, "it will
work for a change and will not be a party of the status quo." To a
question, Mr Khattak admitted that NAP's re-incarnation in the past
under NDP or ANP had failed to deliver and the party could not regain
its national stature.

The NAPP leader has claimed that preliminary contacts with the like-
minded leaders in the country have been made and a large number of
prominent politicians will join the new party. This may not be an
exaggerated claim as is indicated by the June 11 merger announcement of
the Pakhtunkhawa Qaumi Party (PQP) with NAPP. The announcement was made
by Latif Khan Afridi Advocate, chief of the PQP. The popularity of the
veteran Pakhtoon leader can be gauged from the fact that his humble
abode, a little off the main Grand Trunk Road down a narrow ally,
continues to draw journalists and politicians, besides a large number
of veteran Khudai Khidmatgars and ANP workers.

A spokesman of Ajmal Khattak told TFT on telephone from his Akora
Khattak residence that a large number of delegations were still
arriving there to reassure the aging leader of their support. The
spokesman said: "Mr Khattak is in constant contact with various
national leaders on his idea of the national reconciliation
commission." However, he did not give details of the plan.

QK Archives: Handsome Pukhtun from Karak called Pareshan

Handsome Pukhtun from Karak called Pareshan
pubkisbed 20 April 2009
Pareshan Khattak died 16 April 2009

By Afzal Hussain Bokhari
The last I saw him, Professor Pareshan Khattak gave no signs of ill health. With well-combed jet-black hair, he wore the flamboyant air of a final-year university student. With a bracelet on his right and an expensive watch on left arm, he was in a jogging track suit.
Coming back from an evening stroll, he strayed into the residence of his friend Fazlullah Fazli in Phase-III of Hayatabad where local writers and art-lovers had assembled for the post-sunset monthly session of the literary organisation ‘Takhleeq International’.
Except for osteoarthritis, which was not unusual for a man at 77, he did not seem to carry any other visible physical disorder.
Ignoring the synthetic mat spread on the floor of Fazli’s basement, Pareshan Khattak settled into a soft, comfortable chair.
Turning the chair slightly towards ‘Qibla’ in the direction of Makkah to the west, he raised his arms to touch the lobes of his ears and saying ‘Allah-o-Akbar’ started offering the ‘Maghreb’ (evening) prayer.
The participants waited for Professor Khattak to finish the ‘Namaz-i-Maghreb’. I had not the faintest idea that these were the last glimpses I was having of the lovable Pukhtun intellectual. The sound of ‘Allah-o-Akbar’ that was heard in Fazli’s house was stimulating and inspiring whereas the one heard in the sprawling phase one graveyard saddened the ears on which it fell. Pareshan shocked his friends by breathing his last on April 16.
The red rose-petals that slipped from Pareshan’s shrouded dead body got stuck into the blades of lush green grass. Silently announcing the arrival of the spring, they seemed to mourn the sudden death of a God-fearing man who used to come to this graveyard off and on to mourn the similar deaths of near and dear ones.
Born on December 10, 1932 in village Ghundi Mira Khankhel, district Karak, into the home of Malik Muhammad Hassan, the real name of Pareshan Khattak was Gham-i-Jan. Conscious probably of his physically being a handsome man, he later liked to be called as ‘Pari-shan’ (carrying the resemblance of a fairy).
However, the non-Pukhtun friends, colleagues and acquaintances all through his 77-year-long life randomly confused the name with the Urdu adjective ‘pareshan’ which literally meant ‘the mentally disturbed person’.
The mentally disturbed person though he never was except for the brief spell of life some years back during which he learnt that in an allegedly domestic brawl his daughter reportedly got murdered while being with her otherwise influential parents-in-law.
As an intellectual, Pareshan had many facets to his personality. The holder of Master’s degrees in History and Pushto literature, the common reader, for instance, knew him as a romantic poet, research scholar, translator, manipulative academic, successful administrator and an untiring speaker.
The untiring speaker he certainly was though others of his qualities were overtly or covertly doubted, debated and even challenged by various shrewd critics of varying caliber.
At one time, his admirers turned him into a sitting duck for book launching ceremonies.
He usually spoke in a long-winded manner, blending History with Geography and fact with fiction that depending on the public mood variously pleased or displeased the audience.
The proud author of about 10 publications, Pareshan left behind the book lovers that reached out for their purse when they noticed the first collection of Pareshan’s poetry titled ‘Tarranake’ or the more intriguingly named prose work ‘Pushtun Kaun’.
Although he was generally a friendly person but Mir Mehdi Shah Mehdi and Hamesh Khalil got on well with him.
Amazing as the attitude of the friends and foes was, Pareshan was flattered or flayed by the measure of favours that he showered or withheld when working on key posts.
Apart from being the chairman of the former University Grants Commission, he remained the head of the Academy of Letters, Islamabad and the vice-chancellor first of the Gomal University, Dera Ismail Khan and then the Azad Kashmir University, Muzaffarabad.
During the days of General Ziaul Haq, he rubbed shoulders with the high and the mighty of the land.
At one time, he worked as the advisor to the prime minister of Azad Jammu and Kashmir. Immediately after that he founded the Al-Khair University in the private sector.
Due to rush for admissions to this university, there was a crisis of management at various levels.
Partly due to the management crisis but chiefly due to the machinations of the professional rivals in the field of education, the Higher Education Commission started receiving complaints against the Al-Khair University with the result that the HEC had to order the closure in some cities of a few of the Al-Khair branches for not having the required facilities.
It is a pity that Pareshan has faded into history with what appears to be indecent haste. One is left with very few people to show to the outer world that can be called the true representatives of the Frontier province.
Farigh Bokhari, Raza Hamadani, Khatir Ghazanavi and Ahmad Faraz were the kind of writers with whom the outside world associated the province.
One feels oddly awkward in bracketing them together but NWFP in general and Pushto literature in particular has been left poorer by the disappearance from the literary landscape of figures like Amir Hamza Khan Shinwari, Ghani Khan, Qalandar Momand and now Pareshan Khattak.
One prays for the health and a long life of men like Ajmal Khattak, Senator Afrasiab Khattak, Saleem Raz, Rehmat Shah Sail and many others who are still around and serving the cause of literature as well as revolution in the manner they think is pragmatic or expedient.
The admirers of Pareshan rightly expect that his sons Dr Javed Khattak, Major Khushal Khattak, Professor Shahbaz Khattak and Behlul Khattak will probably join hands and will piece together the unpublished works of their late father and bring them out in book form.
More humble and down to earth brother of Pareshan’s, Purdil Khan Khattak can help and guide four of his otherwise capable nephews in doing this work.

Frontier Corp Pakistan history

GOVERNMENT OF PAKISTAN
THE FRONTIER CORPS (NWFP) PAKISTAN AND ITS HEADQUARTERS

General Background

1. It is an historical fact that the tribes living in mountainous area West of River Indus had preserved their independence against the forces of many invading forces/rulers. When the Sikh Empire collapsed and Punjab was annexed by British on 29 Jan 1849, the areas comprising the present North West Frontier Province, also came under their way. It was a difficult task to subjugate the tribes even by the active help/Support of the British. However, within another fifty years, many expeditions were sent against them and some sort of hold was established. The misadventure in Afghanistan by the British in the Second Afghan War of 1878-80 led to the demarcation of the Durand Line. According to the agreement signed in November 1893, the Afghan government renounced “all claims to suzerainty over the Frontier tribes from Chitral to Persian Border residing on the Indian side of the demarcated Durand Line”.

2. The demarcation of Durand Line increased the responsibilities of the British. By that time, they had already established Khyber Agency in 1878, Kurram Agency in 1892 and the Malakand, North and South Waziristan Agencies were established in 1895-96. These administrative agencies in the area had their own units of Militia and Scouts, namely, the Khyber Rifles (1878), Zhob Militia (1883) the Kurram Militia (1892), Tochi Scouts (1894), Chagai Militia (1896). South Waziristan Scouts (1900) and Chitral Scouts (1903). Various Frontier Corps Force (PIFFERS) units of the Frontier Army force also remained stationed at Dera Ghazi Khan, Dera Ismail Khan, Bannu, Kohat, Mardan etc in support of the Scouts.

The Creation of the Frontier Corps Headquarters

3. The arrival in India of Lord Curzon as Viceroy and Governor General in 1899 brought at a change in the policy about the border tribes. He entrusted the job of the PIFFERS to the Scouts and Militia Units. According to a unique tradition, the PIFFER Units and Scouts, used to accept LRC (Last Ration Certificate) of each others personnel despite different accounting systems. These units had been raised in different areas and organised according to local requirements. With the new role, an organisation for coordination was felt necessary. As such a separate Headquarters was created in 1907. The new organisation that was called the Frontier Corps initially comprised the above-mentioned seven units. An inspecting officer with the rank of Lieutenant Colonel/Colonel was appointed as head of the Frontier Corps. His job was to coordinate the activities of the Militia and Scouts and also to re-organise these units in the light of new responsibilities. The offices of the Inspecting officers and IGFC’s used to be in a building near the present Provincial Assembly Hall. These were later shifted to Bala Hisar Fort in 1949. The first Inspecting Officer was Colonel W.C Barrett, DSO.

Expansion of The Frontier Corps

4. In 1943, the designation of Inspecting Officer Frontier Corps, was changed to the Inspector General and Secretary, Frontier Corps (NWFP), with the rank of a Brigadier whose jurisdiction stretched from Skardu in Northern Area to NWFP, Baluchistan and down to sea coast of Mekran. By then, the First Mahsud Scouts, raised in 1937, had also been included in the Frontier Corps. In later years, the Second Mahsud Scouts (1944), the Pishin Scouts (1946), the Thall Scouts (1948), the Northern Scouts (1949), the Bajaur Scouts (1961), the Karakoram Scouts (1964), the Kalat Scouts (1965) and Dir Scouts (1970) were also added. The Kohistan Scouts, were raised on 31st December 1977 at Fort Milward by Major Abdul Qadir Khan but disbanded in 1981. When as a result of one-unit, the province of West Pakistan, was created in 1955, the word “Secretary” was dropped.

Bifurcation into FC (NWFP) and FC (Baluchistan)

5. By 1947 the Frontier Corps had further increased in strength and had become a very big force looking after the area from the Karakoram in the North to the Mekran Coast in the South. The area of responsibility was well over 2500 miles in length. It was, therefore, decided to bifurcate the Frontier Corps. The units stationed in Northern Areas Skardu/Gilgit directly came under the Army, and Baluchistan province came under Frontier Corps (Baluchistan) with Headquarters at Quetta and headed by its IGFC. These units included Zhob Militia, Sibi Scouts, Kalat Scouts, Mekran Militia, Kharan Rifles, Pishin Scouts, Chaghai Militia and First Mahsud Scouts which were re-named as Maiwand Rifles, Ghazaband Scouts, Bhambore Rifles, Kharan Rifles and Loralai Scouts were also raised later on. Mekran Militia which had ceased to exist in early sixties was also re-raised. The units serving in the North West Frontier Province came under Frontier Corps (NWFP) with Headquarters at Peshawar. Second Mahsud Scouts became Mahsud Scouts. Mohmand Rifles and Shawal Rifles were raised later on. The following Pakistani IGFC’s have commanded so far: -

Brig Ahmad Jan, M,B.E 1950-51
Brig K.A Rahim Khan 1951-53
Brig Bakhtiar Rana, M,C, 1953-55
Brig Sadiq Ullah Khan, M.C 1955-58
Brig Rahman GuI, S.Q.A, S,K, MC 1958-63
Brig Sadiq Ullah Khan, MC 1963-64
Brig Bahadur Sher, MC 1964-66
Brig Mahboob Khan, TQA 1966-69
Brig Mahmud Jan, SQA 1969-71
Maj. Gen. Sherin Dil Khan Niazi 1971-72
Brig Iftikhar-I-Bashir 1972
Brig Nasir Ullah Khan Babar, SJ&Bar 1972-74
S.Bt
Brig Ghulam Rabbani Khan, HI (M), S.Bt 1974-78
Maj. Gen. Agha Zulfiqar Ali Khan, HI(M) 1978-81
Maj. Gen. Mian Muhammad Afzaal, HI(M), 1982-84
S.Bt
Maj. Gen. M, Arif Bangash, S.Bt 1984-86
Maj. Gen. Mohammad Shafiq, HI(M), S.Bt 1986-88
Maj. Gen. Ghazi ud Din Rana, S.Bt 1988-90
Maj. Gen. Humayun Khan Bangash, T.Bt 1990-91
Maj. Gen. Muhammad Naeem Akbar Khan 1991-92
Maj. Gen. Mumtaz GuI, T.Bt 1992-94
Maj. Gen. Fazal Ghafoor, S.Bt 1994-97
Maj. Gen. Sultan Habib, HI(M) 1997 to date

6. It is worth mentioning that Brigadier Sadiq Ullah Khan, MC had the distinction of serving twice, as IGFC from 1955 to 1958 and 1963 to 1964. Similarly Brigadier (Now Lt. Gen. Retd) Bakhtiar Rana (1953-55) and Major General Ghazi ud Rana (1988-90) were the only father and son to have remained IGFC’s of the Frontier Corps.

THE MAJESTIC BALAHISAR FORT

7. Bala Hisar is one of the most historic places of Peshawar. The words are Persian, meaning, “elevated or high fort”. According to Dr. Hussain Khan, the name was given by the Afghan King Taimur Shah Durrani (1773-1793). The Sikhs named it Samir Garh in 1834 but the name did not become popular. The fort stands on a high mound in the northwestern corner of Peshawar City. No long ago the fort used to be conspicuously away from the old city of Peshawar but now the construction of new buildings has covered space between the old city and the fort. However the fort being high, gives a commanding and panoramic view of Peshawar and the entire Peshawar valley. On a clear day, one can see the mountains encircling Peshawar valley and beyond. The area covered by the inner wall of the fort is about 10 acres and the outer wall is about 15 acres. The height of the fort is about 90 feet above ground level.

THE ORIGIN AND EARLY HISTORY OF BALAHISAR

8. It is surprising to note that no one is clear about the origin of the fort and many believe that the fort was built by the Mughals. This wrong concept about the origin of this fort has adopted because of the fact that only the Mughals maintained diaries and mentioned about it. Babar, who was very meticulous, never said that he built Bala Hisar. In actual fact the fort is as old as the city itself. It will be seen that the main entrance of the fort directly faces the ancient Route to India [Peshawar­ Charsadda (Pushkalavati) route]. The same route is further extended to the historic city of Shahbaz Garhi (Po-lo-Sha or Varshapura) and onwards to Hund (Udabhandpura). This shows that fort must be at least about 2000 to 2500 years old and must have been the residence of the city chief of those days.

9. Renowned historian Dr. AH.H. Dani in his book “Peshawar— Historic City of Frontier”, writes that when Hiuen Tsang visited Peshawar (630 AD), he speaks of a ‘royal residence’. He says that Chinese word ‘Kung Shing’ use for it is significant and is explained as fortified or walled portion of the town in which the royal palace stood. Hiuen Tsang then makes a separate mention of the city which was not fortified. This shows that the royal residence formed the nucleus of a Citadal, which must have been further protected by a moat. Dr. Dani further says that channel of old Bara river surrounded a high spot which includes the Bala Hisar and Andar Shahr. The higher area could have been Citadel which is the present Bala Hisar.

FORT UNDER THE GHAZNAVIDS

10. Peshawar has always remained a strategic city and its capture was of great importance for the invaders. When Subuktagin captured Peshawar in 988 AD he garrisoned 10,000 horses there. Due to the concept of having a citadel dominating the city nearby, it is easy to infer that Subuktagin’s garrison must have been in the Bala Hisar Fort, by whichever name it existed then. Mahmud of Ghazni had defeated Hindu Rajas Jaipal and Anandpal in 100 AD and 1006 AD respectively near Peshawar. The Raja’s forces must have sought strength and protection from the citadel of Peshawar, which was also protected by the surrounding channel of Bara River. Seeing the importance of the city, Mohammad Ghori also took Peshawar in 1179 AD.

THE FORT UNDER THE MUGHALS

BABAR VISITS BAGRAM

The great founder Mughal Emperor, Zahir ud Din Babar has frequently mentioned about the fort of Bala Hisar in his memories. He talks of this dismounting near Bigrarn (or Begrarn, old Peshawar) and then going out for hunting. He had also visited the great ‘tree’ the Pipal Mandi area, which Hiuen Tsang had seen, having four sitting figures of Budha under-neath. Babar left the fort in the charge of Shah Mir Hussain before his onward march into India.

THE FORT AND EMPEROR HUMAYUN

11. When Mughal Emperor Humayun was overthrown by the great Afghan King Sher Shah Suri, the Afghan destroyed Fort Bala Hisar also. While going to Kabul, Humayun however stayed at Peshawar and rebuilt Bala Hisar. Record of this event by Abul Fazal is quoted by Major Naimat in his article on Bala Hisar.

“After the overthrow of Emperor Humayun, by Sher Shah Suri, Afghans destroyed the fort of Begrarn (Peshawar). When Humayun was staying in the fort, he decided to rebuild it and garrison it and then proceed to Kabul. He wanted to use the fort for his conquest of India at a later stage. After returning from Persia he made use of the fort”.

THE GLORIOUS PERIOD OF THE DURRANIS

DURRANI ROYAL RESIDENCE

12. Ahmad Shah Durrani captured the fort from Mughals and made it a residential palace.

13. Taimur Shah Durrani, the son of Ahmad Shah Durrani had made Peshawar, his winter capital. While at Peshawar, his royal residence used to be in Bala Hisar Fort. However no building/structure of his days exists in the present fort. Taimur Shah kept a bodyguard of “Gholami Shahis” consisting of Persians and Tajiks for protection. In 1779, when a Khalil Chief Faizullah Khan forced his entry into Bala Hisar, the King was saved by the same bodyguards.

BALA HISAR UNDER THE SIKHS

14. After the death of Taimur Shah Durrani in 1793, AD Shah Zaman became the King. However the Durrani rule weakened and the Sikhs rose to power in the Punjab. After the battle of Nowshehra, the Sikhs captured Peshawar including Bala Hisar in 1834. At the time the fort was in a bad shape. Some accounts however indicate that the Sikhs first destroyed Bala Hisar but later realized its importance for protection and had to rebuild it. Either Hari Singh Nalwa or Sardar Khurruck Singh are said to have rebuilt the fort. However according to Raverty, Sher Singh, on the orders of his father Ranjeet Singh, erected the fort with unburnt bricks. Sardar Tej Singh and General Evitable (1838-42) also stayed in Bala Hisar as Governors. While entering the main courtyard of the fort, a Sikh period inscription in marble can be seen on an arch gate. This is the only mark/inscription available today in Bala Hisar.

BALA HISAR UNDER THE BRITISH

1 5. After the downfall of the Sikhs, Punjab was annexed by the British in 1849 and naturally Peshawar valley also became part of British India. At that time Bala Hisar had mud walls and was not very strong. The British replaced the whole structure with bricks and the present shape was given to Bala Hisar. Almost all the barracks that exist today were made by the British.

16. The British used to keep the troops in Bala Hisar till the cantonment was laid out. When the Afridi tribesmen launched an attack on the city in 1930, they fired guns from Balahisar Fort to stop Tribes men from entering the city.

MUSEUM

17. A small museum has also been opened inside the fort which displays the weapons, dresses and other historical photographs etc related to the Frontier Corps.

KHYBER RIFLES

18. The Khyber Rifles is one of the oldest historic units of Militia of Frontier Corps NWFP. Khyber Rifles originally known as Khyber Jezailchis, were raised in Nov. 1878 by Captain Gais Ford. It was a sort of semi Khassadars Force carrying their own rifle (Jezail). This force was to prevent the tribes molesting the line of control of the Second Afghan War expeditionary force (1878). Captain Gais Ford commanded Khyber Rifles upto 1881 when he handed over command to Sardar Mohammad Aslam Khan (First Muslim Commandant). Sardar Mohammad Aslam Khan, who later became Lt. Col. Nawab Sir Mohammad Aslam Khan, commanded the Corps from 1881 to 1897. He has seen the longest period of command i.e. 16 years. Upto 1887 the Khyber Jezailchis served only in Khyber Agency. In that year they were redesignated as the Khyber Rifles and their role changed from serving within the Khyber Agency to serving anywhere required. This major change in the conditions of their service enabled the personnel of the Khyber Rifles to distinguish themselves in various expeditions and operations in which the troops took part.

19. In the troublesome period of World War II, the British Government appreciating the fighting qualities of the Frontier tribes, realised that they could not achieve their aims without the support of important tribes whose recruitment had been stopped in 1921 due to their hostile actions. As a consequence, in addition to some other tribal battalions, the first Afridi Battalion was raised in 1942. This Battalion, served in Iraq, Iran and Syria upto 1946. In appreciation for the helpful response in successfully raising the first Afridi Battalion and gallant actions of the Battalion during the War, it was decided to re-raise the Khyber Rifles.

THE HISTORIC KHYBER PASS

20. Khyber Pass is one of the most important and famous passes in the World, located in the Khyber Agency.

21. This pass, connects Central Asia with the South Asian Sub Continent. This, 42 kilometers long pass starts from the foot of the hills near Jamrud and ends at Torkham on the Pakistan-Afghanistan border. Being the shortest route to the South Asian Sub Continent, most of the races and invading armies marched through this pass. When the British invaded Afghanistan, they sent their forces along the same pass.

22. Khyber is a Hebrew name of a fort. It was in the battle of Khyber near Madinia Munawwarah, where Hazrat Ali (RA) showed great chivalry and that is why, Khyber was founded in the present Khyber Pass by the Pathans, on settlement in 8th century A.D. Similarly, Ali Masjid was founded in the memory of Hazrat Ali (RA).

23. Khyber Pass has very rich history, Buddhism spread through this pass to Afghanistan and the stupas at Ali Masjid and Sphola bear witness to it. Many a battles were fought here by the Afghans against the invading armies. Amir Taimur built a prison in the pass, which is visible from Michi Post. Akbar the Great built a fortress at Kafirkot, near Charbagh. The Mughal Army of Aurangzeb was massacred near Landikotal in 1672 AD. The Sikhs built a strong fort at Jamrud where General Hari Singh Nalwa was killed in 1837.

24. The British, however, not only built many of the present forts and picquets but also constructed the world famous Khyber Railway which was opened in 1925. It has 34 tunnels and 92 culverts. A famous battle between the British and the Afghans was fought at Ali Masjid in 1878. The famous Khyber Rifles of the Frontier Corps, today act as the “Guardians of the Khyber Pass, with there headquarters and beautiful mess at Landikotal”.

KURRAM MILITIA

HISTORICAL BACKGROUND

25. The conquest of Punjab was completed by the British in 1849, but with in the British also acquired the perpetual and insolvable problem of North West Frontier. The high mountains of the area were an effective barrier against invasion, provided the passes were held. The rugged and mountainous nature of terrain made the administration of the area is very difficult, and the freedom loving characteristics of the tribal people of the area made government by foreigners almost impossible. By tradition, in some cases, they were predators through economic necessity and as fanatics they fiercely resisted only rule by the Sikhs or Christians. It was also difficult to make them hold to any agreement, because they would not acknowledge a master. After the annexation of Punjab, the British found the tribesmen on obstacle to the effective management of the vulnerable border with Afghanistan and ultimately Russian. Initially the British followed the “Closed Door Policy”, but by the end of the nineteenth century they switched to “Forward Policy” i.e. of occupying and administering the country right upto the “Durand Line”, the international boundary agreed upon and demarcated with Afghanistan in 1893. This policy was adopted once the British failed to conquer and subjugate the Pathans. To this end a new province by the name of North West Frontier was created to help in the administration of the area. They also found a novel way of solving the problem, and that was to recruit the locals in the Frontier Brigade of the Indian Army. Later on the British raised the Frontier Scouts and assigned the responsibility of security of the region.

RAISING OF THE KURRAM MILITIA

26. Traditionally Afghanistan claimed suzerainty over the Kurram Valley, but apart from an occasional revenue extorting expeditions, they were unable to enforce their writ until the mid nineteenth century, when they occupied the valley with a military force and established their own Afghan Governor. They were finally driven out in the Second Afghan War 1878-80.

27. The Turis tribe in Kurram Agency, except for their initial troubles in the year 1850-55, always enjoyed cordial relations with the British. They had helped them against Kabul Khel Wazirs in 1859 and against the Zaimukht Tribe in 1879. It was neither the policy of the British government to annex the Kurram Valley nor did they want to get physically involved in the area. However, what the British wanted was to inculcate a spirit of self-reliance, self-protection and self-governance by the Turis themselves. However when the Turis took over the country, due to intense hatred between various factions of the area, complete anarchy resulted, Kurram was occupied by Chikai, the famous Zaimukht leader, and the Turis of Upper Kurram had great difficulty in repulsing the attacks of their Sunni neighbours. Finally as the various tribes of the area would not combine amongst themselves, they came, at their own request under the protection of the British government in the year 1892. In September of that year regular Army troops arrived in the valley and Mr. Merk, I.C.S was appointed as its first British Governor. However, it was soon realised that maintaining regular Army to guard such a far-flung Frontier, bordering on hostile and troublesome tribes was a very expensive affair. A new policy was therefore chalked out. The Turis themselves were to be made custodians of the Frontier. The regular Army was to be replaced by the local Turis Militia, as a well trained and lightly equipped infantry force, fully acquainted with local conditions and amply conversant with the country side. The formation of Turis Militia was initiated under Captain C.M. Dallas on 18 Oct. 1892, with a view to avoid the serious commitment of regular Army units for the protection of borders as well as to provide protection to Turis Shia Community in the valley. The raising of Turi Militia was later on completed by Captain E.W.S.K Maconchey of the 4th Punjab Infantry. The headquarters of the Militia was originally located at Balish Khel about 30 kilometers east of Parachinar but was soon shifted to Parachinar itself. Initially in 1899 an experiment was made of dividing the Militia into two separate battalions under separate commandants. The first battalion with a strength of 957 was to be mobile force for defence against foreign aggression, while the second was for garrisoning the valley. However, when this arrangement proved impracticable, the two battalions were amalgamated under one commandant in 1902. About this time the Turi Militia was renamed as Kurram Militia.

TOCHI SCOUTS

General

28. When, in 1849 British completed their conquest of the Sikhs, they acquired not only the Punjab, but also its problems, most notably the ungovernable North-West Frontier. The Frontier tribesmen, the Pathans, though loyal to their family and friends, were well known for their savagery in battle and their fierce independence. Their rebelliousness was the obstacle to the effective management of the vulnerable border with Afghanistan and ultimately, Czarist Russia.

29. ,The British solution to the problem was ingenious. They could not conquer the Pathans, so they recruited them instead. The tribesmen offered the benefits of joining the government service, became the Frontier Scouts, responsible for the security of the region. “The poachers became same keepers” as the Charles Chenevix Trench says in his book The Frontier Scouts”. The Tochi Scouts were also the ultimate result of the same background in North Waziristan Agency.

History and Raising

30. Upto 1904 regular troops occupied the out-posts in Tochi valley with a view to replace the regular troops, the North Waziristan Militia was raised on 1st June 1900 at Idak by Captain A. Fergusson Davie of 53 Sikhs (FF-Now 5 FF). At the time of raising the North Waziristan Militia consisted of 50 Mounted foot infantry and 800 Infantry. In 1901 the strength was increased to 70 Mounted Infantry and 1000 Infantry. The Headquarters of the Corps was transferred to Miranshah in October 1904. In October 1912 the strength of the Corps was increased to 150 Mounted. Croixde Guerre Darim Khan lived to become one of Frontier’s most famous characters.

The Faqir of Ipi (RA)

31. The name of Faqir of Ipi was Mirza Ali Khan. His followers used to call him ‘Haji Sahib’. Ipi is a village, from where Faqir of Ipi started Jehad against British government. Village lpi is located near Mirali Camp in North Waziristan Agency. He was born in 1897 in Shankai Kairta, which is located near Khajuri Post in North Waziristan Agency. He belonged to Haibati Madi Kheil, which is one of the sub tribes of Tori Khel Wazirs. His father was a religious man, named Arsala Khan. Faqir of Ipi was basically peaceful, religious preacher. He performed his first Hajj in 1928. He got married with the daughter of Qazi Hayat Ud Din, famous by the name of “Sheerzad”. He migrated from Bannu to Afghanistan during Khilafat movement. On arrival from Afghanistan back to his village, he adopted complete religious life. Being religious minded, he became popular among the Wazirs and all other tribes in the surroundings. He neither joined any political party, nor participated in any kind of political movement. Physically, he was slim with short height. He spent maximum time in the caves, busy in his prayers. In old age he became the patient of asthma.

32. Faqir of Ipi died at night on April 16, 1960. During his last days, he became so sick that it was not possible for him to walk for a few steps. People from far away used to come to him. His Namaz-I-Janaza was held at Gurwaikht led by Maulavi Pir Rehman. Thousands of people from different places came for his Namaz-I-Janaza. He was buried at Gurwaikht. In September 1922, the strength was decreased to 100 Mounted Infantry and 887 infantry and was given the name Tochi Scouts. Later on further increases/decreases in strength have been made in the establishment of this Corps in accordance with the exigencies of service.

33. Eversince the raising of this Corps is has remained on active service: always on its toes. Its long bloody and chequered history is the history of North Waziristan Agericy. It requires piles of books to be written if one has to do justice to the glorious services. It has rendered in North Waziristan Agency in particular and to the Frontier Corps in general.

Award of Victoria Cross

34. On 7 January 1915 Captain Eustace Jotham of North Waziristan Militia and 12 Mounted Infantry rode out of Miranshah to locate raiders from Khost, in Afghanistan. Captain Jotham was a romantic officer, who while on leave, won newspaper fame by rescuing passengers from a blazing railway carriage and now he was furious at being stuck in mud-hut in Waziristan. At Spina Khaisora, fifteen miles west of Miranshah, he along with his small patrol were ambushed in a deep nullah and almost surrounded by some 1500 tribesmen. Jotham and his men galloped for safety, but just as he was getting clear, the horse of one of his sawers was shot down. He turned back to rescue him using sword, and killed many tribesmen before he was shot dead riddled with the bullets and bleeding with dozens of slashes. Almost at the same time his daffadar a Wazir named Darim Khan dismounted to give covering fire to the remainder of the patrol and remounted and got away safely. Jotham was awarded a posthumous Victoria Cross. Darim Khan received the Indian Order of Merit.

SOUTH WAZIRISTAN SCOUTS

35. In 1878 an irregular Corps had been raised from local tribesmen i.e. Afridi in Khyber to protect traffic moving through the Khyber Pass, picquetting the hills on either side, protecting the route between the Afghan Frontier and Jamrud at the Eastern end of the pass. The Khyber Rifles (old Khyber Jezailchis) through practical experience, were reckoned on all accounts, to be a success, and if Afridis could be made into a useful local militia, surely this could be done elsewhere too.

36. To the Britishers the core of the Frontier problem was Waziristan and in particular its two largest tribes the Mahsuds of South Waziristan and Wazirs of the North Waziristan. The Political Agent of North Waziristan from his Headquarters in Bannu and the Political Agent of South Waziristan from the Headquarters in Tank, employed local levies who were quite useless but retained on the pay with the hope that they could thereby be kept out of mischief.

37. Wazirs and Mahsuds are related but were seldom on good terms. Both tribes were very difficult to handle. It was against this background that the North Waziristan Militia and South Waziristan Militia were formed in 1900. Each Corps consisted initially of 850 men, soon increased to 1850, half trans-­Frontier, half cis-Frontier divided into two wings of approximately battalion strength each, and 150 mounted infantry (MI). They were armed with Martini rifles. Each Corps had six British Officers, two in each wing, the Commandant and the Adjutant/Quartermaster who also commanded the MI.

38. The South Waziristan Militia with Headquarters at Wana had to protect two routes form Murtaza to Wana. The nearest military garrison was in Jandola. First Commandant of the South Waziristan Militia was Lt. Col. R.H. Harman D.S.O who took over as the Commandant on first 1st July 1900 and continued commanding it till he was stabbed to death by a Shabi Khel Mahsud Sepoy Shabir Khan in January 1905.

39. For quite some time South Waziristan Militia kept supporting the regular army in its operations in the Agency from its Headquarters at Khargai. In March 1923 their Headquarters were shifted to Jandola.

40. In 1921 South Waziristan Militia was replaced by South Waziristan Scouts. For which additional manpower was made available from Mohmand Militia which had been disbanded in December 1921.

41. In 1924, the Corps was reorganised into wing. The primary responsibility of the Scouts was to occupy such dominating features all along the Lines of Communications and those nodal points which, if occupied by hostile tribes, would hinder regular army's movement in the Agency. Slowly and gradually the Scouts succeeded in establishing their authority along almost all the roads in the Agency. By 1937 complete Agency was under the effective control of the British.

Visit of Lawrence of Arabia

42. The Jandola Mess acquired a reputation for hospitality and served numerous guests. Among the earliest in 1924, were a party of VIPs including Arlfred Mond, Chairman of ICI and Lord Incheape, Chairman of the P and o Line, touring India, during the cold weather.

43. Another early visitor to Jandola was, Lawrence of Arabia. He visited the area in 1928 in the guise of an Aircraftsmans Show; benighted there by a broken down truck and accommodated in Officer’s Mess. He kept them enthralled by tales (some, perhaps, almost true) of far Arabia and left them a volume which is still treasured by the South Waziristan Scouts officers. “This book, he inscribed on the flyleaf (see photograph), was written by me, but its sordid type and squalid blocks are the responsibility of the publisher. It is, however, the last copy in print of Revolt in the Desert, and I have much pleasure in presenting it to the officers of the South Waziristan Scouts in memory of a very interesting day and night with them”. This book today is lying in the South Waziristan Scouts Officer’s Mess, Wana.

CHITRAL SCOUTS

44. On occupation of Chitral by the British in 1895 an Infantry Battalion with two guns garrisoned the district. The force considered inadequate for the area which was still in the grip of uncertainty owing to the developments between 1892-1895 in which three Mehtars (Princes) were assassinated by their own brothers in a bid to get the throne. It was also felt that in an emergency it would become very difficult to get timely re-enforcement from Gilgit or down country. Therefore, the use of local resources was considered essential. On recommendation of Captain A.H. Macamahon, GSI, CIE, Political Agent Dir, Swat and Chitral, a local Corps was raised in 1903 and named as Chitral State Scouts. Captain Orrady was the first Commandant of the Corps. When the Army moved out of Chitral in 1942 the Corps was re-designated as Chitral Scouts and with new designation come under the control of Frontier Corps.

The Third Afghan War

45. During the third Afghan War of 1919, the whole force was mobilised for active service against the Afghans on the Arandu-Birkot front. They compelled the Afghans to retreat from Chitral border which they had captured prior to the arrival of the force in the area. They also captured Birkot and brought back as a booty considerable arms and ammunition including two Russian guns of 2.75” calibres. These guns are at present placed in the Quarter Guard of Chitral Scouts. The following honours and awards were earned by the Corps in this battle.

Mission Hospital: Tomb, Military Headquarter, Hospital & Chapel

Text and photos
by
Dr Ali Jan
Located inside the compound of the Mission Hospital stands a most unique historical monument of Peshawar dating back to Mughal times. The dome shaped structure is thought to be the garden tomb of Nawab Sayid Khan, the Mughal governor during Emperor Shah Jehan’s rule who died in year 1651 AD. He had built a garden at Dabgari in his lifetime, according to some accounts. The tomb stands in the centre of the same garden.
Side view of the Dome
Renowned archaeologist, professor emeritus Ahmed Hasan Dani, in his book Peshawar Historic City of the Frontier provides the following description of the dome: “The tomb of Sayid Khan…stands in the middle of a quadrangle, enclosed by a wall with corner turrets. The space within the walled enclosure must have turned into a charbagh garden with fountains in the middle. The tomb proper stands on a raised terrace, as was the practice at this time. It is an octagonal building with four higharched entrances on four sides and the corner sides, which are smaller in length, have deep alcoves in two storeys. In the thickness of the wall, which is 14 feet wide, there were originally two stair-cases that led up to the roof but these have now been closed. The plaster of the outer face of the wall has vanished, though arched and square panels still relieve the bare face. The parapet with its merlons has long changed its character. The double dome is raised on a high-shouldered octagonal drum. But the interior has been completely modified to suit originally the need of General Sir Harry Lumsden, the founder of the Corps of Guides, who lived here for some time.”
Rare photo inside near entrance
Sir Harry Burnett Lumsden was born in 1821. He had served as interpreter and quartermaster in the British army in its campaigns in Afghanistan in 1842. He was appointed assistant political agent to Sir Henry Lawrence for the north-western provinces of India and took part in many operations against the hill-tribes along the Afghan border. As a young subaltern of only 25 years Lt. Lumsden was directed by Sir Henry Lawrence to raise the Corps of Guides at Peshawar. It was to be an irregular force, initially comprising one troop of cavalry and two companies of infantry, whose purpose was to serve as “guides” for the British army. It was the most famous of the Indian Army regiments during the period of British rule. The Corps of Guides from which other ramifications such as the Frontier Force or ‘Piffers’ etc have emerged, had a “reputation for bravery and efficiency that was the envy of all the other units.” (The Story of the Guides by Col. G.J. Younghusband, C.B.)
Corps of Guides HQ Peshawar tablet
Lumsden chose the tomb of Nawab Sayid Khan as Guides Headquarter and personal accommodation for himself. An inscription on a marble tablet inside the dome reads: “THIS TABLET WAS ERECTED BY THE OFFICERS OF THE QUEEN VICTORIA’S OWN CORPS OF GUIDES TO COMMEMORATE THE FACT THAT THE CORPS WAS RAISED ON THE 14TH DECEMBER 1846 AT PESHAWAR BY LIEUT. H.B LUMSDEN WHO USED THIS BURJ AS HIS HEADQUARTERS BOTH IN HIS MILITARY AND CIVIL CAPACITY DURING THE YEARS 1849-1851.”
QVO Corps of Guides insignia and logo
Today no traces of the governor’s grave can be found. Moreover, it is difficult to verify the history of the dome during the previous Sikh rule in Peshawar and it is quite probable that the original grave was somehow removed during that era. However, this tomb-turned-military headquarter became the focus of a good deal of activity as the newly formed Guides distinguished themselves in 16 engagements in the span of only five years during 1847-1852.
Peshawar became the birthplace of the Khaki (from the local word "khak" meaning dust) and Lumsden is accredited for introducing this shade of uniform worn by the armies around the world. Lumsden bought all the white cotton he could find in Peshawar and “had it taken to the river where it was soaked and impregnated with mud.” The Guides had originally chosen this colour for their uniform and rest of the British army followed suit and abandoned the traditional scarlet (red) of their uniforms, which was too conspicuous and unsuited to the frontier warfare and adopted Khaki as the fighting dress of the Empire.
Main entrance to the dome
pioneer missonaries to peshawar and afghan
With the passge of time, the Guides shifted their base to Mardan and the military headquarter at Peshawar eventually became a place for Divine worship. On 19 December, 1853 a meeting was arranged under Commissioner of Peshawar Sir Herbert Edwardes to discuss a Christian Mission to Peshawar. It was the Day of the Races, and somebody suggested that the meeting should be deferred on this account. "Put off the work of God for a steeple-chase!" exclaimed the Commissioner. "Never!" and so a small group met in the presence of Rev. Worthington Jukes and established the Peshawar Mission. The Church Missionary Society (CMS) was approached for assistance and the first missionaries sent to Peshawar were the Rev. C. G. Pfander and the Rev. Robert Clark who reached here in January, 1855.
The CMS Afghan Medical Mission started in 1896-97 when two brothers Dr Arthur Lankester and Dr Cecil Lankester - forty-first in the line of missionaries sent to Peshawar - founded a hospital in a camel caravanserai in the walled city. The missionary hospital proved so popular that within few years it was necessary to move to new, larger premises outside the old city gates, inside the Dabgari gardens – the present site of the Mission Hospital Peshawar founded in 1904.

A visit to this beautiful heritage monument is a splendid evocation of Peshawar’s glorious past. An original rare photograph of Sir Harry Lumsden hangs at the entrance. Old Victorian photos and names of the aforementioned pioneer missionaries and many others who followed them subsequently adorn the walls of the Mughal dome. Interestingly, the site serves as a chapel today, which was established in 1926. The interior consists of two levels and the congregation is held upstairs. Until 1977, the interior was mostly wooden, but an electrical fire that year destroyed it completely

QK Archives: At home in prison

At home in prison
Published The News on Sunday circa 2006

What could be a bigger relief for a prisoner than to get united with his family for three uninterrupted days, within the jail premises?

By Javed Aziz Khan

The MMA government, in light of the recommendations of Nifaz-e-Sharia Council, has announced a package to facilitate prisoners to have some time together with their families, thrice every year.

The decision by the NWFP government, which has been praised by the liberal circles and human rights bodies, aims to construct 20 residential barracks in four major prisons -- Peshawar, Haripur, Dera Ismail Khan and Bannu -- ensuring privacy and providing all kind of facilities that a family may need in a home. It was supposed to materialise months ago, as the announcement had come in late 2004, but the construction of separate family quarters took a long time. The PC-1 of the project for Peshawar central prison was approved a few days back under which five rooms, with attached bathroom and kitchen and a few yards in the name of a courtyard, would be constructed close to the main entrance.

Though the introduction of the package would be on an experimental basis for a certain time of period and extended to the rest of the 18 prisons of the province in case of success, many believe it would provide real relief to prisoners. It was the Nifaz-e-Sharia Council that recommended allowing a prisoner to accompany his family after every four months, the maximum period fixed by the second Muslim Caliph, Hazrat Umar Farooq (RA), for keeping a soldier away from home in connection with wars or other journeys.

Of the 2359 prisoners in Peshawar central prison, those who are imprisoned for less than five years or convicted for involvement in anti-state activities or terrorism are not entitled to bring their families. The rest would have to take permission from the District Coordination Officer as well as certain other quarters for bringing their spouses and children. A family would be allowed to stay inside the jail for three days after every four months. If one has two wives, he would be given two each days with every spouse as per the prescribed rules.

Female prisoners in various prisons, who have started protesting against the discrimination, are not entitled to bring their families at the introductory phase of the project. The NWFP government, however, is planning to give them the opportunity when the package is introduced in letter and spirit. Around 340 women are going through their imprisonment in NWFP jails among whom only 95 have been convicted while the remaining, aged 15 to 56, are going through trials under charges that are yet to be proved. Seventy-four children (girls and boys) are also accompanying their mothers in jails, 42 of them are behind the bars since their birth in jail. Females, however, can keep their children upto six years of age, a facility that earlier was extended for children less than three year old. The facility could be extended to six years only if the court allowed.

Although the step has been welcomed by human rights groups, the officials at provincial Prisons Department are still creating hurdles in launching the project. "Yes it had to be completed in all the four prisons last year. But as the allocation for the purpose was not sufficient we had to wait for increase in the budget. Now we have been given the required money and hopefully the project would complete during the current financial year," Inspector General Prisons, Fazlur Rahman, told The News on Sunday, adding they had to re-shape the PC-I due to lesser allocations.

The provincial government had allocated a special fund for the construction of family barracks in last year's budget. But, despite the allocation and firm directives, the slow pace of construction work has not yet allowed the prisoners to avail the facility. In the current budget the government has further increased the allocation for prisons, up to Rs.292.21 million from Rs.252 million, which also includes funds for the construction of the proposed 20 family barracks with 100 more wards in the rest of the 18 jails.

"We have increased the budget for prisons by 15 per cent so the projects initiated to provide relief to the prisoners could be completed within no time. The construction of family quarters has been almost complete in Bannu central prison while 15 other residential units in the rest of the three main jails is going on in full swing," remarked the NWFP senior minister Sirajul Haq, predicting that the prisoners would start availing the facility within a couple of months.

Some people fear it would create a number of problems for the inmates as well as the jail authorities and may open up the possibility of vulgarity in jails. "To begin with, female prisoners have not been given the right for which they have already started protesting. Second, who will ensure the girl coming inside to a family barrack is really the wife of the prisoner?" questions Noor Alam Advocate, who is heading an NGO, The Voice of Prisoners. He also asked for a check over the staff so they would not blackmail any family or oblige only influential inmates.

The step has been widely appreciated as it would enable many families to meet after several years. But there is a concern that five residential quarters may not be enough for a jail like Peshawar where the number of prisoners remains between 2500 to 3000. There must be also a check over the officials of these four prisons so the staff could not misuse the package. And foremost, the same right should be given to female prisoners too.